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Dog Play & Social Skills Explained

Appropriate Puppy Interactions With Other Dogs

When puppies interact with other dogs, play is often assumed to be automatically positive. Watching puppies wrestle and chase can look cute and harmless, but not all play is good play. In fact, many behaviour issues later in life stem from inappropriate or poorly managed puppy interactions.

Understanding what healthy play looks like, recognising red flags early, and knowing when to step in can make a huge difference to how your puppy feels about other dogs long term.

What Healthy Dog Play Looks Like

When our dogs play/interact with other dogs, there are two key things to look for: balance and pauses. These elements tell us whether the interaction is genuinely enjoyable for both dogs or whether it is tipping into something overwhelming or unsafe.

Balance refers to turn-taking. In healthy play, both dogs take on different roles. You may see some chasing, some rolling, some mouthing, and regular role reversals. If one dog is consistently doing all the chasing, all the pinning, or all the biting, the interaction is not balanced.

Puppies and teen dogs, in particular, struggle with impulse control and self-regulation. They can easily overwhelm older, smaller, or quieter dogs without meaning to. An interaction that looks energetic and fun to one dog may be stressful or uncomfortable for the other dog involved.

Pauses are just as important. These are short breaks in play where dogs disengage, sniff the ground, shake off, or momentarily move away. Pauses allow dogs to check in with their own arousal levels and decide whether they want to continue or take space.

Many puppies and teen dogs are very poor at offering pauses and even worse at recognising when another dog is asking for one. Without breaks, arousal rises quickly. This is often when older dogs feel their boundaries are being ignored and may resort to much firmer corrections simply to get the other dog to stop.

It is important to remember that it is not another dog’s job to teach or correct your dog. Relying on older dogs to “sort it out” is unfair on them and risks creating negative experiences for everyone involved.

If you are not seeing balance and pauses naturally, step in and create one. A simple and effective way to do this is to scatter a handful of treats on the ground. Sniffing interrupts rough play, lowers arousal, and gives both dogs a chance to reset before deciding whether they want to continue. You may also need to separate the dogs by putting them on lead if you’re on a walk, or using different rooms at home.

How Puppy Play Often Goes Wrong

The biggest mistake guardians make is assuming that lots of play with lots of dogs equals good socialisation. High-arousal, rough-and-tumble play with unfamiliar dogs or equally excitable puppies is rarely beneficial.

Many pet shops and daycare centres offer puppy play sessions advertised as socialisation. Unfortunately, these environments often fail to provide the safe, controlled learning puppies actually need. Most are not run by qualified behaviour professionals, and staff are rarely trained to read subtle canine body language. Early signs of stress, fear, or over-arousal are easily missed.

In these settings, confident puppies often overwhelm quieter ones. Bold puppies learn that pushy, rude behaviour works and is fun, so they rehearse it again and again. These habits frequently carry into adolescence and adulthood, where the dog approaches others with the same intense energy. Eventually, they will meet a dog who does not tolerate this behaviour, which can result in fights or frightening overcorrections.

Shyer or smaller puppies tend to have the opposite experience. Instead of learning that dogs are safe, they learn that dogs are unpredictable and overwhelming. These early negative experiences can contribute to fear-based reactivity, avoidance behaviours, or ongoing anxiety around other dogs.

There is also an increased risk of physical injury when puppies of very different sizes or confidence levels are thrown together without structure. On top of this, puppies who are allowed to greet and play with every unfamiliar dog may later struggle with frustration-based reactivity when restrictions become necessary during adolescence.

What to Choose Instead

The best kind of social learning for puppies is calm and low pressure. One of the most valuable experiences you can offer is going for a walk with a known, steady adult dog. Your puppy can remain on a long line while the older dog moves freely, allowing your puppy to observe appropriate body language, pacing, and social skills.

On these walks, puppies learn by watching. They see how adult dogs move through the environment, sniffing, marking, investigating, and disengaging naturally. They learn that other dogs are simply part of the world, not something to become highly aroused or overly focused on. This kind of parallel exposure builds neutrality, confidence, and emotional regulation.

If you choose a puppy class, look for a trainer-led programme with controlled, purposeful interactions. Good classes prioritise safety, allow puppies to opt out of interactions, and focus on confidence-building and polite greetings rather than chaotic free-for-alls.

Advocate for your puppy’s space. Step in early, interrupt play when needed, and prioritise calm, positive experiences over intensity. The goal of puppy socialisation is not to create a dog who wants to play with everyone, but a dog who can share space comfortably and move through the world with ease.

Low arousal is key. Whatever behaviours your puppy practises now are the behaviours they are most likely to repeat later. Make sure you are rehearsing calm, thoughtful interactions rather than over-excited ones.

Puppy Socialisation

Why Proper Socialisation Matters for Your Dog

As a dog trainer, I see time and time again the negative effects of improper socialisation. At worst, a lack of socialisation can result in a dog who is reactive or fearful of many things in their environment. But it can also present in more subtle ways, such as a dog who is nervous being left alone, refuses to go in the car, balks at walks, barks at children, or dislikes guests coming into the home.

Because of this, it is worth taking a closer look at what socialisation really is and what we should be exposing our puppies to in order to give them the best possible start in life.

What Socialisation Really Means

Socialisation is the process by which puppies learn to interact with and recognise people, animals, objects, and environments. All animals go through this period, and it provides the blueprint for how they will respond to the world. In dogs, the key socialisation period runs roughly from three to sixteen weeks of age. During this time, puppies learn what is safe, interesting, or neutral and what they do not need to fear. Crucially, they approach new experiences with curiosity rather than caution. After this window, dogs are more likely to become fearful or uncertain when encountering new stimuli.

Because this period is limited, it is important to start socialisation as soon as you bring your puppy home. Waiting until vaccinations are complete means missing a vital part of this window. You can safely carry your puppy in your hands, a sling, a backpack, or a doggy-buggy so they can experience the world without being exposed to disease. Vaccinated dogs do not pose a risk to your puppy.

Socialisation is not the same as letting your puppy greet every dog they meet. Repeated greetings, especially on lead, teach puppies that access to other dogs is expected. When that access is later prevented, frustration builds, which often develops into pulling, barking, lunging, and lead reactivity. High-arousal interactions can also make it harder for puppies to regulate their emotions around other dogs. Instead, socialisation should focus on calm exposure in the presence of other dogs, teaching puppies to observe, disengage, and make thoughtful choices rather than rehearsing over-excited behaviour.

I do not recommend allowing your puppy to interact with any dogs that you do not know. If you’d like to learn more about how to handle interactions with other dogs, click here to read a blog on this subject.

Why Socialisation Is So Often Misunderstood

When people hear the word socialisation, they often picture puppies meeting lots of dogs, greeting every person they see, and being encouraged to interact with everything in their environment. This well-meaning approach is one of the most common ways socialisation goes wrong.

Allowing puppies to greet every dog and person they encounter can easily create problems. Puppies can learn that other dogs are extremely exciting, leading to frustration, pulling on the lead, and then reactivity later down the line when access is prevented. Others may have negative or overwhelming interactions that teach them dogs or people are unpredictable or unsafe. Both outcomes can have long-lasting effects.

True socialisation is not about quantity of interactions. It is not about dog parks, forced greetings, or encouraging puppies to say hello to everyone. In fact, too much interaction, especially during this sensitive developmental period, can result in over-arousal, poor social skills, and difficulty coping calmly in everyday situations.

Instead, good socialisation focuses on calm exposure, thoughtful experiences, and learning how to exist comfortably in the world without needing to interact with everything in it.

Puppies do not need to interact with everyone to be well socialised. Learning to share space calmly is far more valuable than frequent play or greetings. Spending time around well-adjusted, socially mature dogs on walks allows puppies to observe appropriate behaviour such as sniffing, exploring, and disengaging. This teaches them that other dogs are part of the environment, not something to become over-excited about or worried by.

Socialisation check list:

Socialisation is about introducing your puppy to the diversity of the world they will live in. This includes:

Children of all ages: babies, toddlers, teenagers
Elderly people
People with mobility aids: walking sticks, walkers, wheelchairs, mobility scooters, hearing aids or other assistive devices
People with different skin tones
People wearing hats, scarves, glasses, high-vis gear, rucksacks, boots, or high heels
Delivery people and visitors at the door
Other dogs of all sizes and breeds
Other pets and animals: cats, gerbils, guinea pigs, birds, farm animals, horses

Habituation Matters Too

Equally important is habituation. This is the process by which your puppy learns to ignore non-threatening stimuli, including objects, sounds, sights, and smells. Our dogs live in a world full of stimuli, from playgrounds and traffic to doorbells and household appliances. Habituation teaches them what is normal and not something to react to, setting them up for confident, stress-free lives.

Habituation check list:

Habituation goes beyond meeting people and animals. Puppies should be gently exposed to:

Everyday noises: vacuum cleaners, washing machines, drills, traffic, thunderstorms, fireworks
Objects in motion: bikes, buses, prams, wheelchairs
Car travel
Grooming: baths, brushing, nail trimming, ear cleaning
Different surfaces: grass, gravel, carpet
Cafes, shops, restaurants, friends’ homes
Wearing a collar or harness and walking on a lead
Handling of paws, tail, ears, mouth, and claws

Think about your dog’s daily life. A city dog will need different exposures than a farm dog.

How to Make Socialisation Safe and Positive

Let your puppy approach new experiences at their own pace. They should always be able to move away if they want to. Use treats and gentle praise to create positive associations. Keep sessions short, with plenty of downtime for your puppy to process everything. Children should not crowd your puppy, and other dogs should be carefully chosen for safe interactions.

Socialisation sets your puppy up for a successful, confident life. The work begins with breeders and continues at home. It is easy to get it wrong, and the consequences can last a lifetime for both you and your dog.

If you have recently brought home a puppy or adopted a dog and want guidance on getting socialisation right, you can reach out to me to chat or book a session.

Toilet Training Mistakes You Might Be Making…

Toilet training your puppy should be a straightforward process but if you’re finding it frustrating or inconsistent, you’re definitely not alone. The good news is, toilet training can be quick and effective when it’s done right. The bad news? Many owners are unintentionally making common mistakes that confuse their puppies and make the process much harder than it needs to be.

In this blog, I’ll walk you through the top mistakes I see regularly, and how you can avoid them. These tips apply to all breeds, but I’ll also include a few extra notes for small dogs and those who may be struggling more than usual.

1. Not Taking Your Puppy Out as Soon as They Wake Up

Puppies don’t have the ability to “hold it” when they first wake up. If you’re not immediately taking them outside the moment they stir, you’re likely missing the window for a successful toilet trip.

Tip: Before you even say good morning, scoop them up and bring them to their toilet spot. No fuss, no delay.

2. Not Showing Them Where to Go from the Start

When you bring your puppy home, one of the very first things you should do is take them straight to the area you want them to use for toileting. This builds a clear and consistent association.

Tip: Use the same door, same path, and same area every time, at least to begin with. Consistency is everything.

3. Using Puppy Pads Indoors

Puppy pads may seem helpful at first, but they often create more confusion than clarity. If you’re teaching your puppy that toileting indoors is okay, it’s no surprise when they keep doing it.

Tip: Skip the pads if you can, and head straight to outdoor training. It removes a step and eliminates mixed messages.

4. Not Taking Them Out Regularly Enough

At eight weeks old, puppies need to go out a lot. Every 10 minutes when they’re awake might sound extreme, but remember, they’re only up for around four hours total each day.

Tip: Set a timer and be proactive. By day three or four, you can stretch it to 20-30 minutes between toilet trips.

5. Letting the Garden Become Playtime Too Soon

If your puppy associates the garden with excitement and fun, they’re less likely to focus on going to the toilet. Suddenly, it’s a playground, not a bathroom.

Tip: Keep it boring. Take them out on lead or in a pen, wait quietly, and only engage or reward once they’ve done their business. You can introduce play later on.

6. Too Much Freedom Outdoors

Sniffing, digging, eating grass… there’s a lot going on out there, and most of it is more fun than weeing. Too much freedom can be overwhelming and distracting.

Tip: Use a lead or a puppy pen to reduce distractions and help them focus on the job at hand.

7. Not Rewarding Quickly Enough

Timing matters. Your puppy has a tiny window (just a few seconds) to connect the act of toileting with the praise or treat you’re giving. If you wait until you’re back inside, they’re unlikely to link the reward to the correct behaviour.

Tip: Verbally praise them as they go (a quiet “yes!” or “good toilet” works well), then treat them immediately after they’ve finished.

What If You’re Doing Everything Right?

Sometimes, despite doing all of the above, toilet training still doesn’t seem to click and that’s when it’s time to consider a few other factors.

Small Dogs Take Longer

Smaller breeds have smaller bladders and higher metabolisms, meaning they need to go more often. That’s totally normal; it just requires a bit more patience and even more regular trips outside.

Health Issues Can Interfere

If your puppy is having frequent accidents despite consistent training, always rule out medical issues. Urinary tract infections, gastrointestinal upset, or other health concerns can absolutely affect their ability to hold it or go in the right place.

Tip: If your puppy is really struggling, book a quick vet check. Better to be safe than sorry.

The Bottom Line

Toilet training doesn’t have to be a long, stressful process. With the right approach, clear routines, consistent messages, quick rewards, and a bit of patience, most puppies can be reliably toilet trained in just a few days.

If it’s not going smoothly, don’t beat yourself up. Check for these common mistakes, adjust your routine, and give your pup the best chance to succeed.

Have questions or need help with a tricky pup? Feel free to get in touch — I’m always happy to help!

Polite vs Rude Dog Greetings: How to Help Your Dog Interact Properly

As dog guardians, one of the most important skills we can teach our dogs is how to interact politely with others. While dog-to-dog greetings might seem simple, they are nuanced behaviours that can shape how our dogs navigate their world and build relationships with other dogs. A polite dog greeting is not only about avoiding aggressive or inappropriate behaviour, but also about teaching our dogs how to communicate confidently and calmly.

The Curve, Not the Charge

When dogs approach each other, a polite greeting should follow a natural curve, rather than a straight line. If your dog charges directly at another dog, it can be perceived as threatening or overwhelming, especially by more nervous dogs. Dogs, like us, value personal space, and a straight-line approach can make them feel cornered or trapped. Instead, allow your dog to take a gentler, curved path towards the other dog. This gives both dogs the opportunity to assess each other at their own pace without feeling pressured.

No Stiffness, No Tension

A key sign of a polite greeting is a relaxed, soft body posture. Dogs that approach each other with stiffness or tension may be signalling discomfort, uncertainty, or potential aggression. Ideally, there should be no signs of anxiety—such as a raised head, stiff tail, or hard stare—when they meet. If you notice these signs, it’s a good idea to intervene before the greeting escalates into something less than friendly. A relaxed dog will typically have their body language more fluid, with a wagging tail, soft eyes, and loose movements.

Polite vs Rude Dog Greetings: How to Help Your Dog Interact Properly

The Sequence of Sniffs

When dogs meet, the most polite greeting involves a sequence of sniffs. First, they may sniff each other’s faces, which is a way for them to gather information about the other dog’s identity. Then, they’ll often move to sniff each other’s bottoms—this is perfectly natural and a socially acceptable form of greeting for dogs. However, it’s important to note that going straight for the genital area is considered rude, and can be unsettling for the other dog. Let the dogs take their time to go through this sequence naturally and avoid forcing the interaction or intervening unless necessary.

The Significance of Lying Down

It’s tempting to believe that a dog lying down before a greeting is a sign of politeness, but this can be problematic. Lying down is often the first stage of the predatory sequence—it’s a sign that the dog is either unsure of the interaction or is beginning to stalk. This behaviour can indicate that your dog is feeling overwhelmed or worried and may not be in the best mental state to make positive decisions during the greeting. Instead, dogs should remain upright as they approach. This keeps the interaction open and non-threatening, allowing both dogs to feel in control.

Hackles and Overarousal

Hackles raised along a dog’s back are often a sign of heightened arousal, which can indicate excitement, nervousness, or potential conflict. While raised hackles don’t always mean aggression, they’re a signal that the interaction is becoming too intense or that one of the dogs is uncomfortable. If you notice hackles, it’s usually best to intervene and give the dogs some space. An ideal greeting should last no more than 5-10 seconds—just enough time for the dogs to assess each other before continuing on with their walk. Prolonged greetings can escalate tension, especially if the dogs are unfamiliar with each other.

The Role of the Dog Guardian

It’s essential to remember that dogs do not need to play with every dog they meet. Socialisation is about positive, low-stress interactions—not every meeting has to turn into a play session. If your dog cannot greet another dog politely, it’s your responsibility to create space and avoid forcing the interaction. Allowing a dog to interact rudely can lead to poor experiences, and potentially negative corrections from the other dog. It’s important to realise that it’s not another dog’s job to correct your dog’s behaviour; that responsibility lies with you. Some dogs might not be the best “teachers” when it comes to correcting inappropriate behaviour, so it’s crucial that you step in and manage your dog’s interactions effectively.

Conclusion

Polite dog greetings are an essential part of socialising your dog to the world around them. By teaching your dog to approach others with respect, avoid overwhelming body language, and follow the natural greeting sequence, you’re helping them develop healthy social skills. As a responsible dog owner, it’s your job to moderate these interactions, ensuring that they are positive and comfortable for all involved. By doing so, you’re not only keeping your dog safe, but you’re also contributing to a more harmonious dog community.

Puppy Play 101

Puppies are incredibly playful, and watching them interact with other puppies or older dogs can be a delightful experience. However, their play is not just about fun and games—it’s a critical part of their socialisation and learning. How they play shapes their behaviour and emotional regulation as they grow. Two key components to look for in healthy puppy play are balance and pauses. These elements help ensure that play remains safe, enjoyable, and educational, while also preventing bad habits from forming.

The Importance of Balance in Play

One of the most important aspects of healthy puppy play is balance. When puppies interact, especially with older dogs, there should be a fair exchange of roles. For example, both should take turns chasing, pinning, and wrestling. It’s crucial that one dog doesn’t command the entire play session by constantly chasing or pinning the other. If this happens, it can lead to frustration and anxiety for the other dog, and may eventually result in fear or aggression.

This balance is also important when larger dogs play with smaller puppies. The larger dog should adjust its behaviour to ensure the play is not too overwhelming for the smaller dog. This might mean being gentler in its movements or allowing the puppy to take the lead more often. In other words, dogs of different sizes and ages must “handicap” themselves during play to keep the experience fair and fun for all involved.

Research from the University of Bristol’s Animal Welfare and Behaviour team suggests that balanced play is vital for dogs’ development, helping them learn to communicate, set boundaries, and understand social cues in a safe environment. When puppies learn these early lessons, they grow into well-adjusted adult dogs that know how to interact with others appropriately. We want to be choosing playmates carefully for our puppies so that they learn the right lessons, don’t receive any overly harsh corrections but also do not form frustration/excitement based reactivity around other dogs as they move into adolescence.

The Role of Pauses in Play

The second key component of healthy play is pauses. Play should be punctuated by moments of rest or disengagement, where the dogs take a break, assess their energy levels, and check in with each other. These pauses are important for emotional regulation, allowing dogs to assess whether they are still enjoying the game or if their arousal levels are becoming too high. If there are no pauses in play, it may indicate that one or both dogs are becoming overstimulated. This can lead to a breakdown in play behaviour, and in some cases, may result in snapping, growling, or even an unwanted escalation to aggression.

Puppies, in particular, struggle with inserting their own pauses or respecting those of other dogs. As a result, it’s up to owners to monitor play and intervene if necessary. If you notice that the puppies are becoming overly excited without taking breaks, it’s a good idea to intervene. A simple way to break up a heightened play session is by scattering some food on the ground or using a distraction to redirect their attention. This gives both dogs the opportunity to calm down and reassess the situation.

The absence of pauses can signal rising arousal levels, which are often the precursor to bad choices. According to the Kennel Club, maintaining control of playtime is crucial in preventing undesirable behaviours. Puppies that are allowed to play without appropriate pauses may practise rude behaviours, like excessive biting or jumping, which can persist into adulthood.

Why We Don’t Want Puppies to Play Rudely

When puppies don’t learn to respect pauses or boundaries, they develop poor social habits. Puppies who constantly push other dogs to continue playing when they need a break might learn that it’s acceptable to invade others’ space or push limits inappropriately. This kind of rude behaviour can be difficult to unteach as the puppy grows older, which is why it’s important to intervene early.

By encouraging balanced play and ensuring that pauses are respected, owners can help their puppies develop good manners and self-control. Puppies that learn to respect others’ boundaries and insert their own pauses are more likely to grow into well-behaved dogs who can navigate social interactions with confidence and grace.

Puppy play is not just about entertainment—it’s an essential part of their development. Ensuring that play is balanced and includes regular pauses will help puppies develop good social skills and emotional regulation. Whether puppies are playing with each other or interacting with older dogs, observing and guiding their play is crucial. As responsible pet owners, it’s our job to monitor these interactions, step in when necessary, and provide guidance to ensure that puppies don’t practise bad habits. With balanced play and respect for pauses, puppies can grow into well-adjusted adults who know how to interact with others appropriately.

If you are interested in learning more about healthy dog communication and play, check out my Instagram page, where I have created a number of reels breaking down dog body language and communication.

References:

University of Bristol, Animal Welfare and Behaviour Research Group. (n.d.). Dog socialisation and play. Retrieved from www.bristol.ac.uk
The Kennel Club. (2020). Puppy playtime and socialisation. Retrieved from www.thekennelclub.org.uk

Cats and Dogs Living Together: Tips for a Peaceful Home

Introducing a dog and a cat can be a delicate process, but with patience, understanding, and a little bit of strategy, these two can learn to coexist peacefully—or even become best friends. Whether you’re bringing a new dog into a cat’s home or vice versa, the key is to respect their individual personalities and give them the time they need to adjust. Here’s a comprehensive guide on how to make the introduction smooth and stress-free for both your dog and cat.

1. Understand Their Personalities

Before you begin the introduction, it’s crucial to understand the personalities of your dog and cat. Some dogs have a strong prey drive, which could make them more likely to chase or be aggressive towards a cat. Similarly, some cats are more territorial or anxious, which might cause them to be defensive around a new dog. On the other hand, a calm dog paired with a confident cat might adjust quickly.

If your dog is excitable or has a high prey drive, it’s essential to work on their impulse control before introducing them to a cat. Cues like “sit,” “stay,” and “leave it” will be helpful during the introduction process. Similarly, if your cat tends to be skittish, provide them with safe spaces where they can observe the dog without feeling threatened.

2. Start with Scent Exchange

Scent is one of the primary ways animals communicate and understand their environment. Before your dog and cat meet face-to-face, start by exchanging their scents. You can do this by swapping their bedding or using a soft cloth to rub on one pet and then leaving it near the other’s resting area. This allows them to get used to each other’s scent in a non-threatening way, helping to reduce anxiety when they finally meet.

Cats and Dogs Living Together: Tips for a Peaceful Home

3. Create Safe Spaces

Cats often feel more secure when they have a high vantage point from which to observe their surroundings. Before the introduction, make sure your cat has access to high perches, shelves, or even a tall cat tree. This gives them a place to retreat to if they feel overwhelmed during the introduction.

Similarly, ensure that your cat has other safe spaces where the dog cannot access them, such as a separate room or a gated-off area. Baby gates are excellent tools for allowing your pets to see and smell each other without direct contact, giving them time to adjust in a controlled environment.

4. Controlled Introduction with Barriers

When it’s time for a face-to-face introduction, start with a barrier between them, such as a baby gate. This allows them to see and smell each other without the risk of a physical altercation. Keep these initial meetings short and positive, gradually increasing the duration as both pets become more comfortable.

Watch for body language cues during these interactions. A wagging tail or relaxed posture from the dog and a calm, non-hissing response from the cat are good signs. However, if either pet shows signs of stress, such as growling, hissing, or barking, it’s important to end the session and try again later.

5. Use Positive Reinforcement

Positive reinforcement is a powerful tool during the introduction process. Reward both your dog and cat with treats, praise, or affection whenever they exhibit calm, friendly behavior toward each other. This helps them associate the presence of the other animal with positive experiences, reinforcing good behavior over time.

6. Supervised Interaction

Once your dog and cat seem comfortable with each other’s presence through the barrier, it’s time to remove the gate and allow them to interact freely. However, these interactions should be closely supervised. Keep the initial sessions short and gradually extend them as both pets become more relaxed around each other.

If your dog becomes too excited or your cat seems stressed, calmly separate them and try again later. Over time, as they become more accustomed to each other, you can allow them more freedom to interact unsupervised, but always ensure your cat has access to a safe space if needed.

7. Choose the Right Dog and Cat

One of the most important steps in ensuring a smooth introduction is to choose a dog or cat that has already been socialised with the other species. If you’re adopting from a breeder, look for those who prioritise socialisation during the critical early weeks of the pet’s life. Puppies and kittens that are exposed to a variety of experiences—including interactions with the other species—during their socialisation period are more likely to adapt to living with a dog or cat later on.

Alternatively, if you’re adopting from a rescue or shelter, ask about the pet’s history with other animals. Dogs or cats that have lived peacefully with the other species before are more likely to adjust quickly in a new home. Rescues can often provide valuable insight into a pet’s temperament and suitability for a multi-pet household, helping you choose the right companion for your current pet.

8. Patience is Key

Every dog and cat is different, and some pairs may take longer to adjust to each other than others. Patience is essential throughout this process. Rushing the introduction can lead to stress, fear, or even aggression, so it’s important to go at your pets’ pace.

In conclusion, introducing a dog and a cat requires careful planning, patience, and understanding of their unique personalities. By starting with a scent exchange, providing safe spaces, and using positive reinforcement, you can help your pets build a positive relationship over time. Remember, the goal is not just peaceful coexistence but to foster a bond where both your dog and cat feel safe and comfortable in their shared home. With the right approach, they can become lifelong friends

How hot is too hot for dogs?

High temperatures kill dogs. Heatstroke causes a dog’s major organs to fail and send the body into shut down and even if we cool the dog off again, it is often too late. It is always better safe than sorry so this blog is about how to keep your dog safe in warmer weather.

How hot is too hot?

12°-15° – It’s all good at this temperature. Enjoy your walk!

16°-19° – Generally, we’re still safe at this level. However, be mindful that older, overweight or brachycephalic (flat-faced) breeds may start to struggle.

20°-23° – At this temperature, we’re getting dicey. Particularly for the dogs mentioned above as well as large and double-coated breeds and puppies. Avoid rigorous exercise (no ball throwing!), stick to shade and make sure your dog has constant access to fresh water – take a bottle with you if needs be and offer regularly – every 5 minutes.

24°-27° – It’s getting dangerously hot. These temperatures are uncomfortable for all dogs, regardless of age/breed and heat stroke is a very real risk. Avoid walking at all at this time of day and if you must be outside, stick to shaded areas, don’t let your dog’s paws touch the pavement and keep the walk slow paced.

28°-31° – Too hot to take a dog outside, even when sticking to the shade and by water. Temperatures are now life-threatening. Do not walk your dog at all in these temperatures.

32°+ – See above!

Your dog will not die from having a few days without a walk, but dogs do die from having a walk on hot days – and this happens a lot. It’s not worth the risk.

How to exercise your dog when it’s warm

Stay at home! Give your dog enrichment activities, such as:

Scent work – scatter feeds, article searches, hiding a ball
Licking – an entertaining and soothing behaviour for dogs, use kongs and lickmats
Chewing – give them a frozen carrot, rabbit ear, cow hoof, meaty bone etc
Shredding – cardboard boxes, junk mail, lettuces
Play – tug, hide and seek
Training – run through your dog’s known cues or try something new

You can also walk your dog at the cooler times of day – namely before 8am and after 8pm.

Car travel

We all know dogs die in hot cars. Don’t leave them in the car unattended, for even a matter of seconds. It takes less than a minute for a car to begin to heat up like a greenhouse so there’s no time to pop back inside for something you forget or to grab something from the shop.

If you have air conditioning, get this going for a good five minutes before putting your dog in the car.

You can keep your dog cool by dampening their coat with water before getting in the car (evaporation will reduce the heat in your dog’s body). Make sure they have access to fresh water at all times in the car.

If you don’t have aircon and temperatures get hotter than around 20°, then you may need to avoid car travel with your dog at all, if you can’t guarantee you can park in the shade. Even with the windows open, cars get too hot for dogs.

Pavement walks

If it’s hotter than 20°, it’s not safe to have your dog’s paws on asphalt, concrete etc. If you can’t comfortably hold your hand on the floor for 30 seconds, then your dog’s paws are at risk of being burnt and having the top layer of skin ripped away. Avoid, avoid, avoid.

It takes dogs around 6 weeks to get used to a change in temperature. In the UK, we only have a few weeks of hot spells a year (and these are often sporadic) so it’s not long enough for a dog’s body to adjust to safely exist in the heat. This means we need to be taking precautions. Heat related illnesses are almost always entirely preventable.

Luckily (or unluckily, depending on if you like warm weather!), we have very few days in a year where hot weather is going to mean we need to adjust our schedules with our dogs. Take precautions, educate those around you and stay safe.

Fuss-Free Grooming? Cooperative care.

Grooming is an essential aspect of dog care, but it can be a stressful experience for both dogs and their owners. Traditional grooming methods often involve restraining dogs, which can lead to anxiety, fear, and even aggression.

However, a growing number of pet owners and groomers are turning to cooperative care techniques, which prioritise the dog’s comfort and well-being.

What is Cooperative Care?

Cooperative care is a training approach that involves teaching dogs to voluntarily participate in their grooming and veterinary care. The goal is to create a stress-free environment where the dog feels safe and in control.

Benefits of Cooperative Care:

Reduces Stress and Anxiety

Cooperative care techniques help reduce the stress and anxiety that many dogs experience during grooming. By allowing dogs to have control over the process and using positive reinforcement, they learn to associate grooming with positive experiences.

Improves Trust and Bonding

When dogs are not forced into grooming procedures, they develop a stronger bond with their owners and groomers. This trust makes future grooming sessions easier and more pleasant for both parties.

Enhances Safety

Cooperative care reduces the risk of injury to both the dog and the groomer. A relaxed dog is less likely to struggle or bite, making the grooming process safer and more efficient.

Promotes Better Grooming Results

A calm and cooperative dog allows groomers to work more effectively, leading to better grooming results. This is especially important for breeds with specific grooming needs, such as poodles and doodles.

How to start?

Handlers can teach their dogs cooperative care behaviours at home and a nice one to start with is a chin rest. This behaviour is useful for vet visits and therapeutic treatments because it helps the dog relax and feel connected to its handler.

Practicing cooperative care exercises, such as the chin rest, multiple times a day in various environments is key. The dog learns to keep its chin in one spot, typically in the handler’s hand or lap, and stay calm for a set time while receiving treatment.

Step 1: Create Value for the Position

Start by putting a pillow on your lap and placing a treat on it. When your dog takes the treat, say “yes” and give them another treat. Immediately after they eat the treat, use a release cue like “Break” and toss a treat to the side so they see it and go after it. While your dog is retrieving the tossed treat, place another treat on the pillow to encourage them to return. Repeat this several times to help your dog associate the pillow with getting treats.

Step 2: Let Them Choose

When your dog has got this first stage, remove the treat lure and let your dog decide to approach the pillow. Look at the pillow and encourage the chin rest. If your dog sees the pillow as valuable, they should place their chin on it. If not, reward smaller steps like looking at the pillow, touching it with their nose, and then their chin. Remember to release them with a cue and a tossed treat.

Step 3: Name the Behaviour

When your dog is reliably placing their chin on the pillow, add a cue like “Rest” as their chin touches your lap. Reward them after they hold the position for a few seconds.

Step 4: Extend the Duration

Gradually increase how long your dog keeps their chin on the pillow before marking and rewarding the behaviour.

Step 5: Introduce Distractions

When your dog can hold the position for 10-20 seconds, start adding gentle handling. If they stay in position when you pat their back, mark and reward them. If they break the position, stop, and then ask them to do the chin rest again. This teaches them that breaking the position ends the handling.

Always respect your dog’s choice to say “no.” This helps them understand that this is a safe space where their preferences are respected, and it shows them that good things happen when they perform the desired behaviour, but that they can choose to exit at any time.

This enjoyable method of cooperative care training fosters trust and communication. Dogs learn they have the right to choose and communicate their wishes, which reassures them and gives them a sense of control.

Dogs’ basic needs

All dogs have the right to a feeling of safety. This comes in the form of having their basic needs met freely and without restriction – food, water, shelter and health. We want to be showing our dogs that they will have all their needs met continually.

This may seem very basic, but there is a lot of advice out there which disrupts a dog’s ability to maintain this sense of safety (and I use the term ‘advice’ in the loosest possible way) and I wanted to highlight this and why it is problematic.

Water

Water is essential for the survival of all living things. It is the most basic of needs – and it even a fundamental human right, recognised by the United Nations.

So why are we still seeing it recommended to remove a puppy’s water bowl an hour or two before bed, to prevent accidents? If a dog is thirsty, it should not be restricted from drinking because it’s more convenient for us if they’re dehydrated. Puppies are growing so quickly and are so small that dehydration can have serious effects on their little bodies.

When we bring a puppy home, they are going to have accidents. They don’t know the rules and it’s up to us to teach them that going outside is better than going inside, by giving them ample opportunity to go outside and rewarding them heavily for any outdoor business. Their bladders are also just not big enough to go a full night until they’re around 16 weeks, so we should go into puppy adoption being fully prepared for disrupted sleep for at least this time frame.

We shouldn’t be removing water to make it easier for us.

Food

Another example of restricting dogs’ basic survival needs is the idea that dogs should ‘earn’ their food.

Again, food is a basic need. Putting their food in a slow feeder or lick mat to slow them down is one thing (and this can have great benefits for enrichment as well!) but making them perform a ‘command’ in order to get a treat each time, or ‘wait’ until they’ve been told they can have their dinner is just not necessary.

Again, this mentality is very pervasive and, when you think about it, what are we actually gaining from making our dogs wait to eat their meals? I don’t know about you, but this would royally hack me off the shoe was on the other foot.

Similarly, if we only use high value food when we’re trying to get our dogs to perform an action they don’t like (get in the car, bath or put the harness on) the food can become coercive and dogs can become wary of taking food from us.

I don’t generally recommend free feeding (having food down at all times) but regular meals, given without the expectation of anything in return, is really important for well-being.

All of this is not to say that we shouldn’t use food for training, food is a very powerful motivator for many dogs. But the idea that they should work for all their food isn’t helpful.

Safety

It’s also important to show them that you are safe. That they can trust you and that you are never going to do them harm. Your bond is integral to everything that you do with you dog – you want them to think that you are the absolute bees knees and a source of love and good things for them.

This means that we never want to be punishing our dogs or causing them any intentional pain or discomfort when we’re working with them.

Positive reinforcement, using kind and ethical methods, also happen to be the methods that have been backed by science and proven, time and time again, to be equally (if not more) effective than punishment based training (ecollars, prongs, slip leads, water spray, pet corrector, shouting etc). Punishment based training has also been shown, without exception, to have a negative fallout on the dogs’ well-being in studies.

Dogs thrive when they are shown love and compassion and taught new things in a positive way, using play, food or praise as a reward.

Shelter and health

With a few exceptions (such as livestock guardian dogs), the majority of modern breeds have been selectively bred to live alongside humans in their homes. The majority of dogs want to be with their humans as much as they can and so they should be living in our homes, not sleeping outside or tethered to a tree.

With regards to health, we need to make sure that our dogs can have access to the life-saving medical care they need such as vaccinations, flea and worm prevention etc.

This aspect of dog ownership can be contested as it has been argued to be rooted in classism: many people cannot afford insurance or life-saving surgeries. Does this mean they shouldn’t have dogs? Some would say it does, others say it doesn’t.

But if you shouldn’t have a pet because you can’t afford insurance, then where do we draw the line? Should you not have a dog if you can’t afford to feed raw or a high-end kibble? If you can’t afford a house with a big garden? If you can’t afford a car to take them to exciting places? This is a grey and highly nuanced area and certainly not one that I feel qualified to speak on, so I’ll leave you to make your own conclusions here.

To conclude…

What this all boils down to is that we should be considering our dogs’ basic needs and ensuring that we aren’t imposing any restrictions or criteria on them gaining them.

We have come a long way in terms of understanding learning theory and how we should interact with our dogs, but a lot of ‘old school’ mentality surrounding alphas, dominance, pack leaders and respect is still pervasive throughout society and even the most well-meaning person can have been mislead by these ideas.

So the next time you go to give your dog a treat, you can just give it to them ‘for nothing’. They will love you for it.

New puppy or rescue: what to expect

Welcoming home a new puppy or rescue dog can be overwhelming. There are highs and lows as you and your new family member get to know each other and many new owners find the first weeks to be a difficult adjustment. With this in mind, I wanted to lay out what can be expected when we bring a new dog home, both to help people with what to expect but also to normalise how difficult the adjustment often is.

The first few days

Often, we can be lulled into a false sense of security in those first few days. Our dogs are in a state of acute stress: they have left everything they have ever known and come to a new place, with new people and new smells where nothing is familiar.

This results in our dogs holding everything in. They will often be quiet, sleeping a lot and appear to be very ‘calm’. This is very normal but it’s really important to recognise that this behaviour is not going to be forever. Especially with a young puppy or adolescent dog, they are going to have a lot of carnage to cause when they realise they are home and safe!

Owners will often comment on how settled their dog is and how well they are getting on and feel very positive at this stage.

However, is generally after a week or two that new puppy parents and rescue owners will start to feel overwhelmed by their dog’s behaviours. As they start to decompress and feel safe, they will show more of their personality.

As time goes on…

After a week or two, your dog is feeling safe. They are starting to show more of their personality. They may start barking, jumping up, destroying furniture, toileting inside.

Again, this is normal. Your dog is feeling safe and therefore, they are being themselves. A puppy or rescue has not learnt the rules of your home or how we like them to behave, so they are just doing what comes naturally. It’s important to be mindful of the fact that they are not being bad, they are just being a dog.

However, no matter how much you remind yourself of this fact, it doesn’t always make it any easier to deal with the behaviours that are in front of you. It is at this point that owners will often feel like they’ve bitten off more than they can chew and may start to wonder if a getting a dog was the right decision. Often, these feelings of regret come intermixed with intense feelings of guilt, as we feel awful that we are having these thoughts. This is called the ‘puppy blues’ and again, is totally normal. If you want to read more on this phenomenon, I wrote a blog on the puppy blues.

This means that we’ve got a dog who is behaving badly and we’re feeling overwhelmed, sad and guilty to boot. This is a lot for anyone to manage.

So what can we do?

Go back to training basics. We need to build from the bottom up with ours dogs. Don’t expect too much too soon. If you can teach your dog to respond to their name, how to sit and how to ‘wait’ for a treat, then this is a brilliant place to start. This is the fundamentals of recall, basic obedience and impulse control – really important skills and super easy to start off with! Look for easy wins.

Reward everything. Whenever your dog offers you a behaviour you like, reward it. Sat calmly on the floor? Treat. Didn’t bark when someone walked past? Treat. Went to bed without being asked? Treat. Looked at you on a walk? Treat. Everything that your dog does that you like, reinforce it. This is the only way they will learn what we want from them.

Meet your dog’s needs. Make sure your dog is having all their physical and mental needs met. They need to be getting the right amount of exercise: too much and we risk overstimulating and overtiring them. When we come back from a walk, your dog should be calm; if they aren’t, then it was too much. Mental stimulation is also important.

Remain consistent. Make time every day for training. Practise makes permanent so even a five minute training session is better than nothing and will soon add up! You need to be a source of safety for your dog: your bond is everything.

Reach out to a support network. Don’t do it alone. Speak with friends and family, check in with your trainer. There are also lots of wonderful groups on social media where you can reach out to other puppy owners (just be wary of taking any training advice from here, as often this advice is harmful).

Remain positive. By this I mean, stick to positive reinforcement and don’t be tempted to punish your dog. Remember: there is no bad behaviour, it’s just dog behaviour. Dogs don’t do spite or malice, they are not trying to get a rise out of you. Stick to reinforcing what you do like and eventually, these choices will be made more and more reliably.

Take time for yourself. It’s important to have time away from your dog in these first few weeks. Have them go with a walker, spend time with a neighbour, friend or family member so you can do the things that make you happy without your dog. You can’t pour from an empty cup!

Professional advice

Seeking the help of a qualified trainer or behaviourist can also help enormously when you first bring a dog home. Make sure to seek out an R+ (positive reinforcement) trainer, who uses force-free methods. This is the type of training that is backed by science, where dogs learn through praise and encouragement rather than through fear, pain or intimidation.

I work with clients in person across Bournemouth & Poole but also online with clients across the globe. Click here to drop me a message.